A Career as a Perfumer | An Interview with CPL Aromas Perfumer Celine Herbette
Fragrance has the power to connect us. It’s a creative and scientific tool of exploration and one that perfumers offer to us with expertise. Perfumers are the magicians of the industry. In this perfumer spotlight, we speak to Perfumer Celine Herbette about her process, journey, and what it is about the industry that sparks her creativity.
How did you discover the power of scent, and when did you realise that you wanted to become a perfumer?
From a young age, I experienced an acute sensitivity to scents, which I believe is linked to the fact that I started to lose my hearing when I was four and suffered from chronic ear infections. I eventually got better but developed a sensitivity that often left me overwhelmed by strong scents. My father, who works in the packaging industry and is familiar with the world of perfumery, noticed this and suggested that I consider becoming a perfumer.
This idea resonated with me, and although I had other aspirations growing up, I eventually decided to pursue this path and join the Ecole Supérieure du Parfum in Paris.
Our senses are a powerful tool for connection and feeling - how do you explore this power through ingredients in your creations?
I think that the stressful situations I experienced growing up due to my sensitivity to scents led me to seek ingredients that evoke positive feelings. I can now see how some happy childhood memories find their way into my creations, particularly the ones related to my late grandmothers. I often use cedarwood and orris notes, or vegetable and leather undertones that remind me of them.
More recently, I have been diving into scientific publications that explore the effects of specific raw materials and molecules on our emotional and physical well-being. Understanding how certain ingredients can affect our physiology and emotions is something I find fascinating and that influences my creative process.
What does your creative process look like?
My creative process is driven by my curiosity. I am constantly engaged in an olfactory journey, capturing any scents that catch my attention, whether it’s from nature, food, materials, or even watching a sunset. These encounters are a source of inspiration. My friends often laugh when they see me stop randomly to smell something. When something intrigues me, I make a habit to write down notes in my little notebook, and I try to recreate it when I come back to the office. Collaborating with the evaluation team is also a cornerstone of my creative process. I value these moments of exchange because they foster a lot of ideas. What begins as one concept often evolves during these discussions, leading to unexpected directions that I might not have considered initially.
How has an ever-growing and ever-needed focus on sustainability impacted your everyday work?
Sustainability is something I have been around since childhood as my grandparents were farmers. From planting trees to wildflowers for the bees, to cultivating our own vegetables, and never wasting anything that could find another purpose, these practices have been part of my daily routine.
Applying this philosophy to my work as a perfumer feels like a natural continuation. Working at CPL Aromas encourages me to pursue this, as sustainability is one of the core values of the company. We have a sustainability Index which allows us to understand the environmental impact of our creations and is perhaps the tool I use the most.
What are some fragrance trends that you would like to see in the future?
I believe that the future of fragrance holds exciting possibilities, especially fragrances focused on well-being. There are interesting scientific studies that have been published recently and I believe there is still a lot more to discover.
I hope to see the trend in sustainability remain a key focus. Being able to access greener raw materials that have been sourced ethically and responsibly is fundamental.
How have you found support in your fragrance career here in the UK?
When I joined the fragrance industry in the UK, I was lucky to find a lot of support at CPL Aromas.
I previously worked in the Niche and Middle East markets, so I had to learn about the UK market. Since the beginning, I have been surrounded by a young team of perfumers who taught me a lot about it, like Kamila Lelakova, who was my mentor.
The evaluation team, led by Jo Lambert, also helped me grow by challenging and pushing the boundaries of my work.
Finally, I also like to attend the events organised by the BSP and IFRA UK, as I always meet new people and learn more about the industry.
What advice would you give to anyone wanting to join the industry and considering a career as a perfumer?
If you are considering a career as a perfumer, be curious. Smell everything you can get your nose on. Perseverance is key. Patience and hard work are your allies. Be willing to start in a different role or take on diverse responsibilities that allow you to learn as much as you can until you find an opportunity to train as a perfumer. This industry values passion and dedication as much as qualification.
What is one of your scent memories?
One of my favourite recent scent memories is from a trip to Tuscany, after nearly two years of restricted travel due to the pandemic. It was a happy reunion with my closest friends. One of the highlights was a tour of a vineyard in the Chianti region. While wandering around, we visited one of the underground caves, and I was intrigued by the mix of limestone, wine and oakwood barrel notes. I became obsessed with this scent and recreated it into a candle as soon as I got back to work.
Now, whenever I light it at home on a rainy day, I’m instantly transported back to that joyful moment. This experience inspired me to start a new tradition: capturing the smell of happy moments so I can revisit them when my spirits need a lift. It’s my own personal therapy.