A Nose to Watch: Margherita Carini

A cosmopolitan spirit and multi-discipilnary creative, Margherita is a Junior Perfumer at Symrise based between Paris and Dubai, where she keeps mastering her craft with the support of her mentor, VP Sr perfumer Aliénor Massenet.

With a unique educational background converging an artistic and cultural sensibility for scents with Symrise's leading research in fragrance development, Margherita is a highly promising young talent of our industry, and we can't wait to see her career flourish!

When did you realise you wanted to become a fine fragrance perfumer? What steps did you take to join the industry?

I was always fascinated by plants and smells, also thanks to my anosmic father who always asked me to describe the scented world he couldn’t smell. I was drawn from a very early age to feel free to express myself creatively: in high school I pursued arts, with a focus on photography.

When I was a teen, my hometown hosted a small scent festival: that's how I discover this beautiful world and realised that I wanted to pursue this craft.

Mine was quite a long path to perfumery: after high school in Italy, studying Arts and ancient Greek, I obtained a degree in pharmacy to be able to enroll at ISIPCA.

After graduating, I gathered experience all over Europe working in different departments within this industry from evaluation to Raw materials management.

I then joined Symrise Perfumery school, based in Holzminden, Germany. Today, I am a second year Junior perfumer, working between Dubai and Paris.

How did your educational background prepare you for a career in fine fragrance?

I really wanted to acquire a scientific base, and even though chemistry is not mandatory for fragrance creation, I found it open minding: it facilitates my job a lot in a daily basis.

My background in arts and helped me to stay attentive and to find inspiration in the beauty that surrounds us. It enabled me to explore creativity as a mean of communication with other people.

What is the role of mentorship in a young perfumer's education?

I cannot highlight enough what a huge gift a mentor is for someone entering this industry.

Working in such a fast-paced and constantly evolving industry, it really does make a difference for young perfumers to have such a precious bond built on respect, and reciprocate and stimulating curiosity.

I am beyond grateful for my mentor, Aliénor Massenet. She teaches me how beautiful and important is to find freedom in creation… like a “free electron”, as she would says.

A good mentor changes everything, and I'm a firm believer that when you receive such a precious gift, you will be so thankful that you will inevitably try to give the same to others.

What memories do you cherish the most from your time at Symrise Perfumery school?

I had to move from Paris to Holzminden, Germany, and initially it was a big change. The perfumery school is surrounded by a beautiful forest which awakens the senses in a very mystical if not meditative way.

In Symrise Perfumery School there is a big emphasis on promoting a culture of sharing: beside perfumery, you also learn to talk freely to your classmates sharing your ideas and creations.

During School, your main goal is to learn, explore and create freely: In Holzminden even a simple moment between classmates brings amazing brainstorming and crazy ideas about the next accord to create together. All these opportunities reinforced my sense of belonging and gratitude towards the company's culture.

What makes Symrise the best fit for your career aspirations, and how does Symrise support your creativity?

When I joined Symrise, I was pleasantly surprised by the many creative possibilities we had. Symrise allowed us to freely express our inspirations and let our imagination run wild.

At School the company teaches us to prioritise a fulfilment of thought through creation over competition. Even after school you breathe a true sense of community, Symrise creates a very dynamic and supportive work environment.

The school hosts a big, united family of creative young people who all share the same goals and passion, coming together to build spontaneously a healthy environment for teamwork.

I think Symrise is a step ahead in terms of corporate culture, placing a huge effort in teamworking and in creating an exciting creative environment.

Do you see a new, different approach to the craft of fragrance creation among younger generations of perfumers?

Absolutely. For the young generations of perfumers entering the industry now, there is a common feeling of positive change. We enter the industry all with very different backgrounds and

I think that during the educational process, the approach of younger generations has become more inclusive and supportive.

As an Italian perfumer with an attentive eye towards the role of culture in fragrance creation, how would you describe the Italian fragrance culture? How does it influence you as a creator?

When I was still in high school, there was very little access to perfumery education in Italy. Hopefully this is changing now, and I’m happy to see more general awareness of the role of olfaction in our everyday life in the public debate too.

When it comes to an Italian fragrance culture, I think that there are a lot of common notes that consumers prefer for their sense of belonging to the Italian culture and society: citruses, jasmine, orange and lemon flowers, fig leaves are part of our roots.

There is a big emphasis on authenticity, coming from a tradition in promoting the organicity of nature.

I think this value for quality and respect towards education easily influences my international training and interacts with my approach to ME perfumery. Exploring my roots and identity through fragrance creation is definitely a crucial aspect of my work and it is something I truly love.

What excites you about Dubai, UAE fragrance culture and its respective market?

The creative input from Dubai is incredible. There are infinite opportunities of coming across new encounters, smells, and raw materials.

The Perfumery codes are completely different here, it is like learning a new language.

It's also the culture and knowledge of perfume which are different.

The customers have a real expertise, they always smell and perfume has been an important part of their lives since they were young. Everyone has a special relationship with perfume that comes from their family.

What are some of your favourite ingredients?

I love woody notes with all their difference in complexity and richness. I am fascinated by how woods can bring different textures and warmth into a fragrance. In Dubai I’m discovering the beauty of Agarwood, but my favourite wood is probably Vetiver and in particular our Madagascar quality we develop at Symrise. It is so complex and contrasted with its peculiar fruity note that is an addiction by itself.

What advice would you give to anyone wanting to join the industry and consider a career in fine fragrance?

Try to nourish your passion and develop your curiosity. Share and stay in contact with the people who are willing to share. And approach every opportunity and new encounter with passion, perseverance, and an open-mindedness.

What is one of your most favourite scent memories?

The smell of a temple in the jungle during the monsoon season when monks were praying while burning incense sticks. It was during a trip in Angkor Wat, Cambodia: the heavenly aroma of incense blended with the green humidity of the surrounding jungle, and the creaminess of the flowers offers - jasmine and frangipani- a perfume in itself!