A Path into Artisanal Perfumery
Nestled in the serene and picturesque English countryside, perfumer Liz Moore has successfully exported British artisanal fragrance excellence worldwide. Her brand, Papillon Artisanal Perfumery, has garnered a devoted following in niche and artistic markets, with scents now available across the globe through some of the most prestigious fragrance retailers.
Liz is also renowned within the fragrance community for her generosity in sharing her journey into the industry and her creative vision for her brand.
Drawing inspiration from literature, art, and a profound appreciation for nature, including her passion for horses, Liz's artistry is truly remarkable. In this interview, we explore her upcoming projects and gain insights from her expertise in fragrance creation.
What does the power of scent mean to you?
Scent is not merely an amalgamation of molecules, but a profound tapestry of emotions, memories, and connections. It is the language through which I communicate with the world, weaving together threads of nature and nostalgia, time, and place. It has the power to elevate our mood, feel empowered or cause us to pause for a moment in our day. Scent, to me, is also a visceral connection to nature's power. Each perfume I make is a homage to the British countryside that I am fortunate to be surrounded by when working in my studio.
When did you realise you wanted to become a fine fragrance perfumer?
I have always adored perfume and frequently admired the works of the perfumery masters – my appreciation led me to go beyond the bottle and delve into the science behind perfumery. I consumed books on the subject ranging from biographies to technical literature and decided to explore the creation side as a hobby.
After some positive feedback from friends and family, my passion and understanding deepened. The rest is history!
How do other senses, arts, or crafts inspire you creatively?
I always cite nature as the greatest source of inspiration for me. Living in the British countryside, many of my hobbies are outdoors with a divine backdrop acting as a rich and inspiring muse. My love of reading, specifically about history, has also found its way into many of my perfumes; I think perfumes and books both have incredibly transportive qualities.
How did your creative style and olfactory taste develop over the years?
Like most people, I favoured sticky sweet fragrances as a teen. This developed into a love of big, bold classics such as Obsession, Nahema, and Poison. By the time I began creating perfume, my love affair with the classics was in full l swing and I found I was gravitating far more towards animalic fragrances. I think my creative style is now firmly set; however, the subjects, inspiration and finished result are all very different.
What role does the British Fragrance Industry and its heritage play in your perfumery for Papillon Artisan Perfumes?
For Papillon Artisan Perfumes, the British fragrance industry and its rich heritage serve as both a source of inspiration and a guiding influence in our perfumery endeavours. Drawing from the traditions and craftsmanship that have defined British perfumery for centuries, I try to honour the artistry and innovation that permeate its history. Moreover, the British fragrance industry provides a platform for collaboration and community, fostering connections with fellow artisans, suppliers, and enthusiasts who share a passion for scent. I would not be where I am if I had not connected with the wonderful, knowledgeable and passionate individuals across the world of perfumery.
Through our perfumes, we celebrate the enduring legacy of British perfumery while charting new territories in olfactory artistry.
Having grown a cult-following loyal fanbase of customers and fragrance enthusiasts, what role does the fragrance community have for you?
The fragrance community is the heartbeat of my perfumery, infusing it with vibrancy, challenge, and boundless possibility. Exchanging stories and opinions and sharing some of my creative approaches with both stockists and individuals who wear Papillon perfumes is extremely rewarding.
Papillon Artisan Perfumes is renowned for luxurious research into crafting rich scents powered by high-quality fragrance ingredients- can you tell us more about your approach to sourcing, and the role of ingredients during your creative process in crafting new fragrances?
Quality materials have been the cornerstone of Papillon since I first started the company. Understanding your materials is a vital part of the perfume-making process. In the early days, it took a discerning eye (and nose!) and a few mistakes, but I have fostered good relationships with my suppliers and know how to ensure we find the highest quality materials possible.
What is one of your favourite creations, and could you share with us its conception and some of its creative process?
Each time I create a new perfume, it becomes my new favourite!
I started creating Epona (joining the Papillon collection in August 2024) when my beloved horse was still alive. The leather of his saddle, his warm skin, and hacks through the English countryside in summer are conceptualised in Epona, and I feel so grateful to have immortalised him in this perfume. It holds a particularly precious olfactory memory for me personally, but I am also extremely proud of the composition. The twists and turns of the formula take the wearing from the tack room to the English countryside, to the warm skin of a horse, and back to the stable. It was important to me that Epona told an olfactory tale and I love how this new fragrance wears on the skin.
As we near the end of the interview, what tips and advice would you recommend to anyone aspiring to pursue a career in fragrance creation and become a perfumer?
Reading as much as you can on the subject is a good first step. There is an absolute wealth of resources out there for aspiring perfumers; it is the best kind of research! Immersing yourself in the perfume community can also help; building connections with people who share your passion can sometimes add a little extra fuel to your dreams. Finally, I would say study as many materials as you can from all around the world. Smell rose absolute from Turkey, smell it from France...take in as much as you can before you sit down to create, and don’t forget to keep notes.
To conclude, we would love to hear about one of your most cherished scent memories!
My scent memories probably feel a little predictable for a niche perfumer, but like everyone, they are rooted in life’s simple pleasures.
The smell of fish and chips on the beach, my children’s skin when they were babies, bonfire smoke on a cold autumn night...with Epona I have been able to reimagine one of my olfactory memories into a perfume so who knows, perhaps the others will inspire a perfume of their own one day, but maybe not the fish and chips!