Behind The Scent: An interview with Soki London & Ruth and Nic Mastenbroek

What began as a flourishing YouTube channel for fragrance reviewing, has now crystallized into a long-cherished dream for Sophie King: her very own fragrance brand. From her debut fragrance, Empress, Sophie's entrepreneurial prowess came to the fore, underscoring her keen business acumen.
Returning to the spotlight, Sophie rekindled her collaboration with the renowned Master Perfumer Ruth Mastenbroek and her son, perfumer Nic Mastenbroek for a new enchanting scent: Aphrodite.
In this exclusive interview, we delve into the essence of Aphrodite, tracing its inspirations and illuminating the sourcing journey, and uncover intriguing anecdotes from this successful synergy between two eminent British fragrance powerhouses.

How has your year been so far from a business and creative perspective?

Sophie: I can't believe it's been not even a year since I launched Empress and now my second fragrance, Aphrodite. I think that there are so many new releases these days, but also people are starting to buy perfumes for different occasions, so it's been interesting to see the positive reaction from people. Setting up an independent vegan and cruelty-free fragrance brand is something that I care so deeply about, and I am overwhelmingly grateful for seeing Soki London stand out in the market.

Ruth: From our perspective, it's been really exciting to work with someone as ambitious and forward-thinking as Sophie, and helping her translate her ideas into fragrance. It was a lot of fun!

How did your background in communication and fragrance reviewing shift into your brand launch, and how did your community of fragrance enthusiasts support you in launching your brand?

Sophie: I am very curious and inquisitive by nature. When I started working ten years ago in a fragrance store, I began gaining extensive knowledge of the market. I found that many brands created confusion with their offerings and communication to consumers. So, I always felt the need to simplify fragrance, and offer high- quality fragrances at an accessible level.

I truly wanted to engage with my community and get their input on what they wanted.
I raved a lot about one of my fragrances being discontinued, and my audience felt the same way. We wanted to pay tribute to Guerlain's Coconut Fizz.
The strength and lasting power of fragrances were other aspects my audience expressed interest in. So, while the brief and inspiration were developed by me, much of the input came from attentively listening to my community.

It's definitely refreshing to have a brand that is so open and engaged with customers and fragrance enthusiasts. How did the inspiration for Aphrodite come about? Was the attention to Greek mythology and the sense of escapism through the olfactive structure your idea, or was it more the result of working with Ruth, and Nic?

Sophie: It was a bit of everything, really. I specialized in Greek Philosophy at university, and I am still vividly interested in Greek mythology. For me, fragrance is a way to escape, and I use scent to influence my mood. Aphrodite is the character you become or embody when you wear the scent —a very feminine, tropical, exotic, mysterious, otherworldly character. That's the beauty of fragrance—you can remind yourself and stay in a mindset by smelling a scent on yourself. That's what I wanted to create with Aphrodite.

Working with Ruth was fascinating. It was interesting to learn more about the chemistry side of fragrance. We used Coconut Fizz as an initial inspiration but layered its iconic nature with more tropical and complex notes.

It's also quite a different take on interpreting romanticism through perfume…

Nic: Another aspect that was important to Sophie, as observed from working with her in the past, is the sophistication, luxury, and quality of fragrance. We aimed to convey these qualities in a rich and comprehensive manner. Our goal was not merely to create a simple tropical fragrance, but to develop a layered composition that takes the wearer on a journey.

Ruth: While conversing with Sophie, it became evident that potency and longevity were key. It was truly gratifying for us to work with high-quality materials the finest and most renowned fragrances, offering similar olfactive experiences. As Ruth mentioned, maintaining consistency is crucial, serving as a seal of approval for essential oils, natural, or synthetic ingredients. Our choice of oils depends on each creative brief.

Sophie: My foremost priority is crafting long-lasting perfumes, and I'm willing to invest in potent ingredients to create fragrances that can become lifelong companions. Ruth winning The Fragrance Foundation UK 2023 Awards for Perfume Extraordinaire was a validation of her expertise and lifelong dedication to high-quality creations.

I truly enjoy closely collaborating with a family-owned fragrance house, as it allows us to focus on ingredients while minimizing expenses on aspects like marketing.

How was sustainability explored for Aphrodite?

Sophie: The packaging is free from cellophane, reducing plastic usage. In general, Nic and Ruth, along with the industry, are becoming increasingly mindful of sourcing processes and striving for circularity and sustainability. By also using synthetic ingredients, we've reduced our carbon footprint while offering a fragrance with stability and richer facets.

Nic: As a company, our sustainability ethos involves focusing on both synthetic and natural ingredients to minimize waste and environmental impact. Ruth's minimalist approach ensures we extract maximum value from each material.

You're both British brands championing British fragrance heritage. How did this collaboration between the two of you come about?

Sophie: I became aware of Ruth's family business a while ago, and her ethos aligned perfectly with what I was seeking. As a fellow small business, I understand the daily challenges. It was important for me to have my fragrances crafted in the UK for sustainability and business reasons, supporting others in the industry.

Ruth: From our perspective, working with someone like Sophie, who brings so much to her brand and shares her vast knowledge with us while remaining curious and open to learning, has been refreshing. What began as a partnership has evolved into a constant source of inspiration for us.

Nic: For a fragrance reviewer entering the market, there can be challenges because people might expect their range to align with the current market trends. However, Sophie brings her unique knowledge and expertise, tailored to her distinct qualities. Her willingness to be herself and take risks within the industry is genuinely inspiring. We're hoping for an opportunity to continue this collaboration!

This risk-taking and creativity are also reflected in how you, Sophie, were open to a very free and open collaboration with both Nic and Ruth. Nic, how did you decide to enter the family business and follow your mom's heritage? Ruth, what has your experience been as the master perfumer of your son?

Nic: Despite my corporate background, I always aspired to run my own business and had a deep passion for fragrance. I grew up immersed in fragrance creation at home, although I wasn't fully aware of how strongly drawn I was to this craft until I joined the company, initially supporting the business aspects. Compounding in the lab for my mom allowed me to unearth my passion for delving into ingredients and formulations. Having Ruth as my mentor is incredible; there's no fear of making mistakes, and she encourages me to discover my unique perfumery style. She's not one to go easy on me, which makes for a great partnership, I believe.

Ruth: When I first started testing him at the beginning of his journey, I intentionally selected some rather challenging ingredients for him to identify, because why make it easy for him, right? Yet, that's the beauty of perfumery: the learning journey never ends.

2023 has already proven to be a successful year for both of you, with Ruth's triumph as Zephyr won Perfume Extraordinaire, and Sophie, you being a finalist at The Fragrance Foundation UK 2023 Awards. What can we expect next from each of you?

Sophie: I'm definitely looking to expand my portfolio with more fragrances, and hopefully, more projects will come to fruition next year. I'm also enjoying creating my homemade candles, and I'm currently working on some Christmas candle designs. So yes, another character, another fragrance is in the works, and I'm hoping for a release by 2024.

Ruth: We would love to continue collaborating with Sophie in the future. At the moment, both Nic and I are working on exciting new projects for our brand. I've been developing some ideas for over three years, so we're hopefully getting closer to their final realization.

Nic: I also have around six or seven briefs that I'm currently working on. The flexible time frame allows me to focus on each project to achieve the best result.

CREATIVE DEEP-DIVE: APHRODITE'S MANGO ACCORD

Nic: The coconut element was something Sophie was keen on from the beginning. When you think of tropical imagery, the creaminess from coconut immediately evokes thoughts of holidays and warm places.

As I worked on enhancing the creaminess of coconut, I discovered mango could boost the fleshy, juicy creaminess reminiscent of both fruits.

So, I created a mango accord, pairing it with fresh aquatic accords and jasmine absolute.

Sophie's ability to push us out of our comfort zones is one of the most interesting aspects of working with her.

Her involvement is what gave both Empress and Aphrodite a distinguished quality.

Sophie: Mango is quite a challenging note; it often serves as a low-lasting top note. However, with Aphrodite, you can smell it throughout, which is quite unusual. I wanted notes that people could easily smell if declared in the pyramid.

How did you enhance this mango note and make it long-lasting?
Nic: For me, the approach was to create a slightly more complex accord, almost forming a top, middle, and base structure for the mango, rather than the usual approach of using just a couple of ingredients for a top note. I aimed to craft a fragrance within the fragrance itself with the mango. The green element from the palm leaf extends the mango note into the heart, while the fleshiness is carried from the top to the base using sandalwood. This imparts the texture, skin, and experiential aspects of the fruit's taste and smell.

Sophie: Additionally, the coconut is present but not dominant. Often, coconut is paired with vanilla to amplify its sweetness, leading to heavier wear. In this case, the fragrance is much fresher, almost reminiscent of coconut water.

APHRODITE'S TROPICAL & AQUATIC FACETS

Was the aquatic element important from the beginning, or did it come about during the project?

Sophie: I believe the aquatic element was present from the outset, as the exoticism I envisioned was closely tied to a lush tropical vegetation. It's a scent memory that remains with me whenever I travel.

BUILDING A BRAND IDENTITY

How did you aim to maintain Sophie's brand identity while introducing new inspirations and olfactory challenges?

Ruth: While Empress features fruity, floral, and woody nuances, along with a unique popcorn accord, Aphrodite deviates from Empress in its character. However, the shared fruity elements, longevity, and sillage personalities help maintain the brand's identity—the essence of "Sophie-ness" shines through both fragrances. I see both scents as sisters.

Sophie: Absolutely, Aphrodite exudes romance and exoticism, whereas Empress possesses a strong, resolute character, more suitable for autumn/winter wear. They certainly have common threads, including their bottles. I consider my scents mood enhancers, drawing customers based on occasions rather than being limited to exclusive wear during specific seasons.

This alignment is also evident in the media campaign and the strong brand identity conveyed through packaging and presentation. How was the media campaign for Aphrodite conceived?

Sophie: It was a wonderful coincidence that 2023 coincided with the year of Barbie. I had already planned to use pink for Aphrodite prior to the film announcement. I love how these campaigns are vibrant, pop, and carry a sense of childhood nostalgia, along with an ethereal, otherworldly feel...

For example, the mermaid impersonation for Aphrodite was inspired by Botticelli's Birth of Venus, with Venus being Aphrodite's Roman counterpart. I really wanted to convey the myth without alluding to an oceanic, marine imaginary.